Overhead view of salted chanterelle mushrooms in a mixing bowl. A Dutch oven containing olive oil and garlic, shallot, and fresh herbs is nearby.

Apps & Snacks, Condiments, Sides

Mushroom Confit

By John Becker

• November 18, 2024

This recipe is one of several we have adapted (e.g. fixed) from other cookbooks. Published as “mushroom conserva” in Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home, we immediately recognized the promise of these garlicky, herb-infused fungi. The aromatics brought to mind champignones al ajillo, a classic Spanish tapa where mushrooms are cooked with garlic in olive oil, deglazed with dry sherry, and sprinkled with paprika and herbs. (Find our recipe on page 251 of the 2019 edition!)

Here, the same elements are in play: olive oil, fungi, alliums, herbs. A splash of sherry vinegar brightens the dish and adds a distinctive nuttiness. Keller has you adding all of the shallots, garlic, and herbs to the pot with the oil and heating it to a sedate 170°F for five minutes, then adding mushrooms and bringing it back to 170°F for another five minutes, and finally covering the pot, removing from the heat, and letting it infuse for 45 minutes. Frankly, the low temps and gentle steep just did not coax enough flavor from the aromatics for our taste, and the mushrooms were still quite firm. Squeaky, even. We knew these mushrooms could be better, and without the need for a thermometer.

After a few experiments, we now salt the mushrooms and let them drain for an hour first, which rids them of moisture and seasons them throughout. We then infuse the oil with shallots, garlic, and herbs for fifteen minutes over very low heat (just enough so that the garlic starts to bubble faintly). We stir in the drained mushrooms, and put the whole pot into a 200°F oven for one hour. The resulting mushrooms are more flavorful and have a luxurious, meaty texture.

You can use plain old creminis, oyster mushrooms, or shiitake caps (for the latter, trim the chewy stems off and reserve to add to a stock or broth). Here, we used chanterelles. You can certainly use them and other prized wild mushrooms, perhaps a mix of wild and cultivated to give more depth and variation in texture to the finished confit. That said, unless you have an abundance of foraged mushrooms, we recommend sticking with cultivated varieties.

The mushrooms are a perfect topping for a thick slice of toasted sourdough, but we also love serving them as part of a cheese board, or gently heated and spooned over polenta.

Mushroom Confit

YIELD

About 6 cups

PREP TIME

5 minutes

COOK TIME

1 hour 20 minutes

SALTING TIME

1 hour

Ingredients

2 pounds mushrooms
1 tablespoon fine salt
2 cups olive oil
(2 shallots)
4 garlic cloves
4 sprigs thyme

1 small sprig rosemary
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar
(1 teaspoon smoked paprika)

Equipment

Colander
Dutch oven or ovenproof saucepan

Toss together in a colander placed in the sink or over a bowl:

2 pounds mushrooms, larger ones quartered, any tough stems removed

1 tablespoon fine salt

Let sit for 1 hour. Gently press any excess moisture out of the mushrooms (do not rinse). Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 200°F.

Combine in a large ovenproof saucepan or Dutch oven:

2 cups olive oil

(2 shallots, thinly sliced)

4 garlic cloves, smashed

4 sprigs thyme

1 small sprig rosemary

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Set the heat to medium and wait for the garlic to start faintly bubbling. Reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the mixture steep for at least 15 minutes.

Add the mushrooms, cover, transfer to the oven, and bake for 1 hour. Remove from the oven, uncover, and stir in:

1/4 cup sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar

(1 teaspoon smoked paprika)

Cool completely before packing into a jar with a tight-fitting lid, making sure the mushrooms are completely submerged in the oil. Store refrigerated for up to 1 month.

About the Author

John Becker, Irma’s great-grandson, is the fourth generation co-author and steward of the Joy of Cooking. John has a background in literature, research, and critical writing. Influenced by his father Ethan’s improvisational style and his mother Joan’s love of international foods and spices, John started experimenting in the kitchen at a young age, whether in his mother’s Portland, Oregon condo or at the Becker family home in Cincinnati, Ohio. Many decades later, he continues to revisit Joy’s classic dishes while exploring new recipes, ingredients, and ways of thinking about home cooking.

Things that are true about John

When left to his own devices, John will slather his morning toast with fried chili paste instead of jam (unless its apricot).
John has probably used 5 forms of garlic in the last 24 hours.
John is a soda and bitters enthusiast.
Sometimes John struggles in the kitchen, even when he’s making something he basically knows by heart.
John is a recent convert to the chicken bouillon powder faith.
John is a pan juice aficionado.
John has gotten a speeding ticket while trying to keep Sichuan takeout from getting cold.
Grilling fish for company stresses John out.
John is impatient when making dark roux.
John thinks fried potato snacks belong in more sandwiches.
John is a recovering garlic press hater.
John thinks baby tongs are much better than culinary tweezers.